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Many years ago, Apoorva had the chance to become the eaterie to break the Mahesh-Trishna hold on the city’s seafood fans. The food was of great quality, it was cheap and it was accessible. But visiting it again after a gap of a few years, it seems that time has not been so kind to it. For instance, it had fancied itself up when the trendies discovered it and it looks like the decor has not changed since then. Why were Socrates-like figures adorning the walls? And most important of all, where were the customers?

As it turned out, I quite liked most of the food. Plus the service was quick and friendly and there’s nothing like a Mangalorean eaterie if you’re looking for a drink with your meal or only a few drinks, with snacky things on the side. For years, all those who didn’t want a “hip pub” or an outright bar experience headed here. Thing is, Apoorva clearly has some catching up to do.

The prawns within a sukha masala were, it has to be said, a bit of a disappointment. The prawns were in fact shrimps and the gravy had, gasp, tomato in it. We were sort of bamboozled into ordering it, without thinking and then perhaps it is not fair to complain.
So on to the surmai fry which was delightful — large and fried in a sort of koliwada batter which gave it a crisp covering and contrasted well with the thick, white flesh. A well-done surmai fry is a joy forever. A good make up after the disappointment of the prawns.

The encomiums have to be reserved for the crab in butter pepper garlic. The crab was large and fleshy and while there was a lot of the pepper-garlic mix, it was not swimming in butter so did not overwhelm the crab.

It’s a tricky mix this, finding the right balance of masala or accompaniment with crab. The meat is so sweet and so delicate that the taste can be destroyed if it is not treated with respect. I am happy to report that this crab was treated like a king. You could pick and choose your pepper-garlic quantity and not feel like you were swimming about in congealed butter — air-conditioning can be mean to this dish.

After that, we were well satisfied. There was no place left to eat any more but I remember from memory that the chicken curry with neer dosa was to die for.

My last thoughts are that Apoorva needs an upgrade to keep up with the times and then it may well, deservedly, return to its former glory.