On the Turquoise Coast

Clear, turquoise waters dotted with yachts and quaint-looking local boats called gulets; green undulating hills that look down on beautiful beaches; and remnants of a past that go back millennia – Fethiye, on the south-western coast of Turkey, is something magical.

Located at the head of the Gulf of Fethiye, an extension of the Mediterranean Sea, Fethiye is one of the major nodes of the Turkish Riviera, stretching from the better known Antalya in the east, to Bodrum and Marmaris in the west. The Turquoise Coast, as it is also called, is less famous, and thus less crowded than the French Riviera further west, but no less endowed with natural beauty. Fethiye is also an important halt on the Blue Cruise, pleasure cruises in gulets that ramble along the coast, stopping at the many picturesque beaches, coves, bays, lagoons along it. The town has three buzzing marinas and a beautifully laid out promenade running along the harbour front.

It's a tranquil spot – none of the hustle-bustle of Indian beaches – ideal for sitting and looking out at the sparkling blue waters of the sea, with the famed '12 islands' that dot the Gulf shrouded in mist far off.

Paspatur, or 'Old Town', a short walk away, is much more obviously 'touristy' with narrow, paved streets lined with shops selling all manner of Turkish sweets, spices, souvenirs, textiles, artefacts, etc. There are also eateries thronging the sidewalks offering a selection of local cuisine – kebabs of all kinds, pide (small pizzas), dolmas (rice or meat rolled in vine leaves), Gozleme (soft stuffed bread much like our kulcha), and mezzes platters with and an assortment of fresh cheese, olives and vegetables.

But it's the vestiges of the town's historical past that's the most compelling. Especially, what looks like a temple set into the rock facade of the hills above the city centre. Large enough to be seen a mile away, the monument dates back to 350 BC and is the tomb of Amyntas, the ruler of Telmessos (or Fethiye today).

Telmessos, is believed, was founded in the 5th century BC – more than 2,600 years ago – and was one of the most important and prosperous cities of the Lycia, as the area was then known. But it isn't just the Lycians – the Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans too established their hold on the city down the centuries, the remains of which still linger in the crumbling churches, forts, houses spread all over the area.

Fethiye: A Travel Must

Oludeniz: A short drive from Fethiye, Oludeniz (or Belcekiz), is the most picturesque of the many beaches along this stretch of coastline. Famous for its 'blue lagoon', it's the one place that comes closest to 'mass tourism' with crowds thronging its communal beaches. The women here sport everything from burkinis to bikinis. Babadag, the hilltop near Oludeniz, is renowned for its paragliding.

Kayakoy: This deserted 'ghost' village on the hilltop above Fethiye is somewhat eerie. Kayakoy is a window to a disturbing chapter of Turkish history – the Greco-Turkish war at the end of World War I, followed by the persecution, massacre, and rape of Christians. It culminated in a population exchange in between – Christians went to Greece while Muslims settled in Turkey. And so the largely Christian populace of Kayakoy left. A hundred years on, their houses and churches remain, their walls still standing, but their roofs caved in and overgrown with flowers.

Lycian Way: The Lycian Way is a 540 km ancient road – little more than a mule track in parts. Winding through pine, carob, juniper and cedar forests, the path (actually several that run in the same direction) hugs the coast, connecting Oludeniz and Antalya, and several remote relics of ancient monuments at Patara, Xanthos, etc.

12 Island Tour: The tour operators called it thus, but none of them actually go to all 12 islands. Few make just a few stopovers for passengers to swim in the coves or walk about among the pine trees. Two of the islands are particularly interesting – Sovalye, the largest and nearest to the mainland, which is named after the 'chevaliers' or knights of St John, a military order of monks who fought in the Crusades. There are remnants of a castle they built along with an underground cistern. The other is Gemiler, which has the ruins of 4-6 century AD churches – one of them believed to have housed the tomb of St Nichols, the inspiration for Santa Claus.

Tlos: This is a cluster of ancient ruins on a hilltop that dates back 4,000 years. Said to be one of the largest settlements in Lycia, there's a well-preserved acropolis, the remains of a fortress, and several tombs in the Lycian style, temple-like structures carved into the rock face of hills.