Couture designers Monica Shah and Karishma Swali reflect on the decade-old journey of label 'Jade'

Walking into the display of 10 years of Jade collections in Mumbai's global export house Panchari International, where their journey began, is much like taking a trip through India's heritage sites. Exquisite couture pieces are juxtaposed with brass statues, heavy silver traditional jewelry and other treasures collected by Jade founders Monica Shah and Karishma Swali on their travels across the country. Celebrating a decade of this haute couture label, the duo took a look back at their evolution as a brand, which has also branched out into pret with Amoh by Jade.

A photo series depicts the intricate landmark pieces designed over the past 10 years in the backdrop of Ladakh's stark landscape. A statuesque model poses in a dusky rose, handcrafted zardosi lehenga with complicated resham motifs and a heavy brocade border, paired with an antique-style tasseled ivory blouse – one of the earliest designs by the duo. Ladakh's cold desert and snow-capped peaks rise behind her and Buddhist prayer flags flutter above her head. Another stands in front of an elaborate mural of the Buddha in an ancient temple in a newer creation – a jacket and lehenga in maroon with kadana and jaal work as well as organza detailing. Indian tradition and global sensibilities mingle in this creation, a reflection of Jade's philosophy, which the duo has stuck to through the years.

"We were a lot more floaty – open to whatever new thought came our way – when we started," says Swali, who has been working together with Shah for 20 years, the first 10 of which were spent under the umbrella of Panchari International, creating designs for iconic labels like Dior and Gucci. "We have been able to make our sensibility more concrete and know what we want to say."

(Statement pieces of Jade’s 10 year collection, modelled in the backdrop of Ladakh)

Having worked in the world of couture even before venturing into their own brand, the duo found it to be the natural path for their own label. It was their pret label Amoh that came as more of a challenge. "Our mentor was Maria Grazia Chiuri and we worked with her while she was a designer with Fendi; she later went to Vercace and then Dior. So couture became our orientation as well," explains Karishma. "We went into pret with Amoh to give a contemporary face to heritage."

Travel still remains the core of inspiration for the designer duo, and Ladakh has been one it's richest sources for them, as was one of the first places that the two friends toured together. But it's not the only destination from which they have drawn inspiration. Indeed, Jade prides itself in taking India's majestic art and architecture. "We drew inspiration from the temples of Hoysala for one of our lines," reminisces Monica. "Our collection Alekhya, which we brought out last year, reflects our take on the Taj Mahal. We have another collection inspired by Mithila art."

Tradition goes hand-in-glove with artisans and even as the two rode the wave of success to the top, they have not forgot the hands that actually breathe life into their concepts. "We are coming up with a line, which will have the names of the artisans on the labels, so that they get the recognition they deserve," smiles Monica.