At Paris Fashion Week, Chanel's Instagram-savvy feminist protest drew a lot of flak. After Hrs debates - Is fashion a credible form of protest?
In a finale led by Karl Lagerfeld, a panoply of super-models took to a catwalk named "Boulevard Chanel" holding placards with slogans such as "History is Her Story," "Make Fashion Not War," and "Tweed Is Better Than Tweet."
The show triggered an Instagram frenzy and seemed more like a publicity stunt than anything with depth and serious thought. Also, this month's Vogue India's issue has been dedicated to Women Empowerment. The magazine's editor Priya Tanna in her edit note writes, "The idea was to raise awareness with features and fashion editorials that draw focus to powerful, emancipated women."
Jean Paul Gaultier has been well known for putting plus-size and transgender models on stage while the history of Vivienne Westwood's catwalks is steeped in political issues, Scottish independence being the most recent one. We ask designers how serious are these fashion protests - is it a mascara coated gimmick or there lies a more potent, conscientious message?
Wendell Rodricks
Using fashion as a platform for protest is not new. In fact, many designers who feel passionate about an issue make their voice heard from the ramp. I myself recall protesting about the sad case of garbage in India and sent out Deepika Padukone in a lycra dress with garbage bags sewn on for a show. However, if a designer is merely using a cause to latch on to, it sounds hollow. Which may have been the case with the collection Boulevard Chanel. That said, Lagerfeld showed a new side of Chanel in terms of colour, cut and modernity. With that in place, personally I forgive the hype and the protest staging. The clothes were so good that he did not really need the photographers at the end.
Hemant Sagar
Even Chanel was not taken seriously on this. It seems to me the actual question is whether fashion is a credible platform, and to that I can only answer - "Work in Progress." It looks like we're working on it. In a country like India there are so many vital things to be protested about that I can surely say there are certainly more credible platforms to formulate protest than those that cater essentially to weddings.
Payal Singhal
If an individual or a brand which has visibility is using the attention to do charity or social work, kudos to that. However, using it as a PR stunt is completely wrong. In case of Chanel, maybe it didn't get executed properly. Also, Chanel as a brand doesn't need publicity and also it doesn't have a history of protest unlike say MAC charity or Stella McCartney who's against cruelty to animals. If textile designers get weavers and artisans on stage it's fine but if I do it it's won't make sense.
Shradha Murarka
The fashion industry has always mirrored the zeitgeist and it is no surprise that in the recent times when women's issues have especially come to fore (including Emma Watson's speech that went viral), that a designer picked up on this issue. Having said that, Karl Lagerfeld didn't do this for it to be taken too seriously, and we should take it in the same spirit too. Fashion, like any other art form, has been and will always be a genuine platform to bring attention to current social and political issues.
Payal Khandwala
Gisele Bundchen holding a placard with a strong message is likely to gain more eyeballs than an ordinary social worker. Of course, every brand wants to be in the radar and if Chanel hadn't done it, you won't be writing about it. Perhaps the protest was the brand's communication of the season. You and I may see through it but I think it's a great way to make a point and as long as people are looking at it.
Anupama Dayal
I absolutely think fashion is a fabulous platform for protest. I myself used Bronze Begum (own collection) to protest India's obsession with skin colour. And almost always have social messages in my work.
Kanika Saluja
I feel fashion is a credible platform if used in the right way, it has the power to reach a wide audience since the glamour associated with fashion draws a lot of attention. Fashion doesn't just represent a person but a personality and a mindset. My label Annaikka is a feminist brand and all our collections have always promoted a message or a cause we feel strongly about. We also run the Annaikka foundation which consistently works towards the empowerment of women and children and it is our constant endeavour to promote this foundation through our work in fashion.
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