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In a revolutionary move, 3D printed ornaments come with artistic finnese

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Jewellery connoisseurs have more reason to rejoice. 3D printing in jewellery is taking off steadily amongst jwellery-makers, providing customers with unique custom-made designs, intricate patterns on metals and fine finishes.

"3D Printing is still very fresh in the jewellery industry and we feel it will take a while to catch on. Barring a few players, jewellery still remains an industry heavily dependent on craftsmen to create masterpieces,” says Gaurav Singh Kushwaha, CEO and co-founder, BlueStone.

Worldwide, 3D printing in jewellery is expected to reach $11 billion by 2020. But this is a very small speck on the global jewellery market. TechSci Research has predicted the global gems and jewellery market to cross $443 billion by 2022. 

However, expects feel the industry has loads of potential to embrace 3D printing in full swing going ahead. 

3D printing is said to bring in multiple benefits to both jewellery brands and consumers alike. Meera Iyer, head of marketing at jewellery brand Melorra, says the key advantage of 3D printing in jewellery making is the superior finish it gives to the product versus handmade pieces. “Additionally, it is faster, less labour intensive and gives more durable pieces. Moreover, it allows for standardised output every single time and intricate designs suddenly become easy to mass produce.’’ 

Although the exact price drop depends on the volume of the metal involved (whether it is 18K gold or 22K) and on the choice of colour (whether it is yellow, white or rose gold), on an average, say experts, prices can drop by 10-15% for 3D printing gold jewellery, as compared to getting it made by craftsmen.

“Making charges will not be eliminated entirely as 3D printing also has costs associated with it. However, as scale of 3D printing increases, the costs will be driven down,” says Shreyas V Cotha, director, C Krishniah Chetty Group of Jewellers.

Also, the time-to-market of the finished product lessens by two days on average, thanks to the infusion of technology. “Fine work that required hours of craftsmanship, will now be possible within much shorter time frames,” says Kushwaha.

This apart, 3D printing allows for the creation of certain designs that seem impossible to create by hand.

Says Kushwaha, "Where delicate designs requiring fine meshwork and filigree style designs was not possible earlier, the 3D printer will make it all a possibility.” According to Cotha, since a 3D printer works layer by layer, it can craft out unique designs, as it can “print an inner layer simultaneously while printing an outer layer, paving the way for a whole new gamut of design possibilities.’’

Cotha says they have a state-of-the-art 3D printer. “Currently, 3D printing involves a printer working on a wax resin, which is then cast; hence we are able to apply the process to all metals including platinum, gold and silver. Moreover, any and all gemstones can be set in 3D printed and cast mounts. ”

Experts say since 3D printing allows brands to produce small batches of customised jewellery in shorter time span, it also solves the problem of stocking on a huge inventory of high value, that may or may not get sold in the long-run.

At BlueStone, says Kushwaha, they use 3D printing technology at an initial stage, “albeit not in gold, but in wax, since it is a more economical method of production and provides a superior finish, unmatched by anything else.”

Melorra has invested in computer-aided design (CAD) technology that enables high precision and accuracy in making jewellery moulds through 3D printing. Iyer says CAD technology feeds on the images for 3D printing and has made it possible to visualise accurately how the final piece will look and appear. “The jewellery is cast using the moulds and the final finish if left at the hands of expert artisans.”

ARTSY INNOVATION

$11bn 
3D printing in jewellery is expected to reach by 2020 globally

10-15% 
Prices can drop by for 3D printed ornaments, versus that made by craftsmen

2 days 
The time-to-market of the finished product is reduced by

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