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Not every jewel is timeless

Designers marry gemstones and diamonds with the colours of seasons to create exotic pieces

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From the baby pink of the cherry blossom to the yellow hued tulips, and the blood red leaves of the Chinar, to the radiant branches of the deodar covered in pristine white snow. The beauty of spring – summer, autumn and winter is increasingly captivating jewellery designers who now look to merge the myriad shades of seasons with the luminosity of gold, silver, diamonds and precious gemstones.

In a jewellery market which is touted to reach Rs 5,30,000 crore by 2018 (as per a study by Ficci – AT Kearney), designers are brandishing their creativity by taking inspiration from seasons around the world.

While jewellery aficionados are going about selecting pieces such as bracelets inspired by the juicy green apples that blossom in spring, necklaces laced with sparkling diamonds to depict winters, and rings in the metallic hues of fall; all of which cost upwards of Rs.80,000 and can go upto a few lakhs of rupees.

“There is vast richness in each season, the depth of colours in fall, the bright sunshine of summer and the delicate snow and ice formations in winter. Jewellery derives an intrinsic connection with the earth. This is especially true of high-end jewellery, in which each piece is created as a work of art to be worn and passed down generations,” says Payal Mehta, founder of Payal New York, a designer specializing in bespoke fine jewellery.

Prriya Rathee, senior designer, Ganjam Design Studio, says that seasons have always been symbolic of new beginnings. “They bring new colours, creating natural trends. For autumn, metal colours like yellow gold, pink gold are best suited when combined with stones like yellow sapphire, rubies and rubellites. While white gold and stones like pink sapphires, emeralds and diamonds help bring alive the flavours of spring.”

According to Sangeeta Dewan, principal designer, ZOYA, the luxury diamond boutique from the Tata Group, jewellery connoisseurs look for unique, never-seen-before designs to add to their own exclusive collections of jewellery. “That is why unique themes like say the seasons of Kashmir not only excite them, but also add the magical beauty of a place like Kashmir to their jewellery portfolio. Just like rare pashmina shawls are very close to a connoisseur’s heart, jewellery inspired from the Kashmir valley become a collector’s item.”

To depict the flora and landscape of Kashmir’s seasons, designers from ZOYA have used rubies to demonstrate tulips that bloom in spring, rose quartz and yellow sapphires to represent the Chinar laden fall, and sparkling diamonds and tanzanites for bringing alive the snow-filled white winters. “Symmetric rows of tulips become the inspiration for the design of a statement bangle, encrusted with princess cut red rubies set in pink gold. While yellow sapphires and diamonds set in yellow gold help recreate the colours of an autumn evening in the Kashmir valley,” says Dewan.

Meanwhile, Sakura or the cherry blossom season of Japan is captured in its jeweled glory by a collection from the premium brand Ganjam. “Coloured diamonds, pink and yellow sapphires, rubellites and diamond briolettes set in pink, white and yellow gold help capture the essence of the Sakura bloom through its journey from a bud to a full blossom. For such collections, even the client’s profile has to be unique, wherein smaller products with just the buds are for the young customer defining their various stages of life; while the larger products with full blossoms are for clients who have been through the journey of life and are now in their blooming phase,” says Rathee.

Mehta says she has drawn inspiration from the “rebirth and revitalization of the earth in spring with its explosion of blooms.” “ I have created a series in white gold with petals of white diamonds and rare yellow or pink diamond centres. The collection is like a wild garden, with rose cut diamond pendants of a delicate leaf of ivy, to draping vine earrings and diamond bangles with yellow buds about to bloom,” says Mehta.

FOR SEASONAL SHINE

  • Jewellery market is touted to reach Rs 530,000 crore by 2018, says a study by Ficci – AT Kearney
     
  • Designers are brandishing their creativity by taking inspiration from global seasons
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