At a time when labels like “pure”, "natural”, “ethically-sourced” environment-friendly” are being used to sell everything from food to fashion like hotcakes, organic wines are gradually making their way into soirees and millennial glasses.
Although a nascent phenomenon, brands are luring in the wellness-conscious and those looking for top-class quality with an array of red, white and sparkling organic wines.
“Currently, across the globe, over 40% of wine consumers are millennials, who do not hesitate to ask where their wines are being sourced from, while creating an opportunity for organic winemakers to expand and sell. As a result, there has been a growth of 80% in terms of sales in the organic wine industry globally,” says Sahil Arora, a chef and the founder of 266 – The Wine Room and Bar.
Wine consumption in India is still a budding trend, with per capita consumption being a mere 25 ml, as opposed to the global average of 3.5 litres annually. And organic wines hold just a fraction of the total market pie.
They carry certain distinct advantages over their non-organic counterparts, say experts. “Organic suggests minimal processing and no-use of chemical additives. In other words, the winemaker cannot use synthetic fertilisers, herbicides, pesticides and sulphites during the course of grape growing or wine-making. The vineyard is certified by a third party,” says Pratik Angre, head sommelier at restaurant brand Rivers to Ocean.
And since the grapes are grown organically, they do not carry traces of sulphites that can cause headaches and hangovers after excess consumption of wine, says Meghna Bhandary, F&B manager at Blown, a Bengaluru-based blowdry bar that serves Canadian organic wines. “Moreover, non-organic wines may contain added sugar, they are typically higher in the alcohol content, they could contain additives such as food dyes and 'mouth-feel' agents and also mycotoxins and moulds.’’
Organic wines, on the other hand, have high levels of the antioxidant resveratrol that fights free radicals, improves heart health and decreases cholesterol formation, adds Bhandary.
Health benefits aside, organic wines also taste better. Kailash Gurnani, chief winemaker and director, York Winery, says depending on the wine-making practices in the winery, organic wines can taste more fresh and light. “Wines made with heavy chemical inputs (whether it in the winery or the vineyard) tend to be tough and heavy on the palate and lack freshness.” Angre adds that organic wines taste “livelier’’.
“It is generally accepted among viticulturists that the taste and flavour profile of an organic wine is unique in a way that it reflects the true terroir of the soil. There is a definite difference in the taste of organic wines as a result of low sulphites as compared to the higher sulphite content of conventional wines, which result in headaches,’’ says Bhandary.
Organic wines, however, will take a long while before attaining popularity. Experts say wine as a macro category is still perceived as an “elitist’’ beverage, as opposed to beverages like beer, vodka or whisky. “Even though millennials have embraced wine, the popularity pales when compared to beer or whisky in India. And for organic wines to gain credence, it will still take longer,” feel experts.
And one of the chief factors for this is the higher pricing. Angre says organic wines are priced 10-13% higher their non-organic counterparts as their production is highly labour-intensive, requiring extreme detailing and manpower.
The mandatory certifications needed for organic products add to the costs. The Food Safety Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) has notified organic food certification for all imported food products, including wine under the food safety and standards (organic foods) regulations.
Premium imported non-organic wines in India are priced at Rs 3,500 for a 750 ml bottle. “Our organic wines are priced at least Rs 1,500 more with an MRP (maximum retail price) of Rs, 5,000 a bottle,’’ says Bhandary.
Currently, most organic wines are imported by brands as the Indian weather does not permit grape-growers to grow 100% organic varieties. “The disease pressure here is very high. Hence on certain occasions, chemical fertilisers need to be used,’’ says Gurnani.
SWIRL FOR HEALTH
- 40% – Of wine consumers are millennials across the globe
- 80% – growth in sales seen in the organic wine industry globally
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